Особливості стилізації і трансформації українських етнічних мотивів при створенні сучасного одягу

Abstract

У статті досліджено особливості стилізації та трансформації українських етнічних мотивів при створенні сучасного одягу. Розглянуті поняття творчої стилізації та художньої трансформації. Охарактеризовані методи стилізації та трансформації українських народних мотивів в дизайні одягу. Проведено аналіз їх застосування в творчості вітчизняних та зарубіжних дизайнерів одягу. Наведені приклади впровадження цих методів.

В статье исследованы особенности стилизации и трансформации украинских этнических мотивов при создании современной одежды. Рассмотрены понятия творческой стилизации и художественной трансформации. Охарактеризованы методы стилизации и трансформации украинских народных мотивов в дизайне одежды. Проведен анализ их применения в творчестве отечественных и зарубежных дизайнеров одежды. Приведены примеры внедрения этих методов.

This article investigates features of stylization and transformation of Ukrainian ethnic motifs in creation of modern clothes. The concepts of creative stylization and artistic transformation are examined. Stylization in design – direct transfer of the most obvious visual signs of a cultural design to an item that is being envisioned. Creative stylization – this is a decorative generalization of the object, the selection of the most significant features of the form and their exacerbation, the refusal of secondary, conditional simplification. A higher level and a more complex degree of creativity on the way of forming an artistic image – transformation. Transformation in costume design is a change, transformation of the form, properties of the object. Transformation can be built on the thesis, which confirms the regularity of the appearance of a new way of negating the old one. Or as a general movement, that is, the reconstruction of the past in a new cycle. The methods of stylization and transformation of Ukrainian folk motifs in the design of clothes are characterized: method of using the form of Ukrainian folk costume; method of using ornamentation of Ukrainian folk embroidery in modern forms of clothing; creation of an artistic image that embodies the idea of Ukrainian culturological interpretations, authentic sources. An analysis of the application of these methods in the work of domestic and overseas designers of clothing and brands is carried out: Oksana Karavanska, Roksolana Bogutska, Liliia Poustovit, Iryna Karavay, Olesia Telizhenko, Vita Kin, Jean-Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, Prabal Gurung, Gareth Pugh, Gucci, Valentino. Ukrainian fashion designers use all three methods of stylization and transformation of Ukrainian ethnic themes in the creation of their collections. Overseas designers, however, most often apply a method of using Ukrainian folk embroidery ornaments in modern forms of clothing. Methods of stylization and transformation in the clothing design with national motifs are characterized using the examples of artistic-figurative interpretations of Ukrainian ethnics in the creative work of clothing design students of the Separate subdivision “The Mykolaiv branch of the Kyiv National University of Culture and Arts”. Among the objects of stylization and transformation of Ukrainian folk motifs were considered: the components of the traditional dress (women’s shirt, apron, wreath, zapaska, kersetka, kruhla kokhtochka, kraika), ornamental motifs of the Ukrainian Easter egg and Lviv embroidery, the bioforms of Ukrainian nature and one of the symbols of expression of authenticity of the Ukrainian people – the image of the flower of the mallow, the types of decorative and applied arts – vytynanka and samchikovsky painting. Appeal to Ukrainian ethnic themes, traditions of the Ukrainian folk costume and their application in the modern design of clothing is one way of demonstrating their own culture and national identity. The use of national subjects is often done in collections of serial production clothing and individual sewing. These types of productions provide a unique artistic and compositional costume solution that gives it exclusivity and originality. With the help of methods of creative stylization and artistic transformation it becomes possible to rethink and aesthetically transform the “traditional” into a costume as a work of contemporary art. It is the isolation of the ethno-direction in the national design of clothes that gives a figurative identity to Ukrainian products, identifying the Ukrainian manufacturer in the world’s fashion arena.