Аксесуари та доповнення – невід’ємні атрибути гламурного костюма

Abstract

У статті досліджено жіночий костюм кінця ХІХ–ХХ ст., який став підґрунтям для формоутворення гламурного костюма. Визначено, яку роль відведено аксесуарам та доповненням у структурі костюма. Охарактеризовано і класифіковано аксесуари за призначенням та принципами формоутворення в дизайні костюма. Висвітлено еволюцію розвитку основних атрибутів гламурного костюма та їх втілення в сучасній дизайн-практиці.

В статье исследован женский костюм конца XIX–ХХ вв., который стал основой для формообразования гламурного костюма. Определено, какую роль играют аксессуары и дополнения в структуре костюма. Охарактеризованы и классифицированы аксессуары по назначению и принципам формообразования в дизайне костюма. Освещена эволюция развития основных атрибутов гламурного костюма, их воплощение в современной дизайн-практике.

Due to things, people form their own image and broadcast it to others. The image of a person is primary, and the ways of his achievement are secondary, but glamour develops within them. Accessories and additions play an important final role in creating a glamorous look. They make a crucial impression during an acquaintance, demonstrating your style. In composition of a glamour costume, the accessories such as: bags, gloves, belts, glasses, hats, jewelry, and others – are essential attributes, they play not only role of additional elements but also contribute to the overall style of the costume. On the one hand, they must “fit” to the style, but on the other hand, they have their own “internal” fashion, which doesn’t always coincide with the ideas of designers. For this reason, the question of classification of accessories and additions characteristic of glamorous style in clothes design and determining of the main ways of their embodiment in modern design practice is still relevant. The analysis of identified sources of information enables to state the following: fashion analysts and costume theorists consider glamour as a distinct stylistic tendency or integral structure of a particular style, which in modern conditions pretends to the recognition of specific design and artistic practice with the typical constants through which new images are constructed and recognized. The origin of glamorous lifestyle, according to most of scientists is related to the epoch of Rococo, when France became the center of society life of all Europe, offering endless entertainments, holidays, balls and masquerades. Frenchmen identified glamour with an ability to present themselves exquisitely and with charm, to show their own elegance. An important fact is that the culture of salon and privately-elite communication appeared at that time, and became a foundation of a glamour culture, within which accessories and additions have and essential role. According to the results of research of a glamorous costume of the late XIX – early XX centuries, it was found that during this period of time accessories took an important role in formation of a costume. First of all, accessories were made only of expensive and high-quality materials and were decorated with rich decor, that’s why only people of the upper classes of a society could afford them, thus demonstrating their social status. The research had also shown that gloves, hats, highheels and valuable jewelry were essential attributes of the glamorous costume in this period, and they had not only practical but also a decorative significance. The ХХ century is characterized by a great variety and variation of accessories. The main changes got hats and shoes – designers and couturiers at the beginning of this century created constructively sophisticated forms of hats with rich decor, which over time, transformed into elegant small hats decorated with brooches, handmade embroidery, precious and semi-precious stones. At this time the culture of glamour penetrates into the different layers of a society, women try to copy the images of film-stars. Gloves, highheels, filament of pearls and valuable accessories remain the main attributes of a glamorous style, but considerable changes took place in the formation, design and use of the modern materials. The great attention is paid to decoration of products. The peculiarity of modern glamour is that it is organic and acceptable as a way of life, as ideology, and as a specificity of styling one’s own appearance through a suit and accessories to it – only for a small group of consumers. As a rule, these are people who create glamour and live glamorously in the right surrounding. The main amount of people use glamour “on demand”, for example the actors of red carpets or the participants of beauty contests. In their daily life, these people are not always glamorous, but for these events, they choose a style of glamour that is focused on expressing exceptional status, fantastic, standard and seductive beauty.