Художні особливості традиційної жіночої вишиванки Заліщицького Подністров’я (кінець ХІХ – початок ХХ століття)

Abstract

У статті досліджено художні особливості традиційної жіночої вишитої сорочки одного з районів Західного Поділля, зокрема Заліщанщини. Розглянуто основні характеристики стилю виготовлення, шиття та орнаменту жіночої вишиванки. Виділено специфічні риси вишиванок цього регіону – зокрема рукав, що мав тридільну композицію. Здійснено поділ жіночих вишитих сорочок на довгі, короткі та тунікоподібні. Охарактеризовано зміну впродовж досліджуваного періоду геометричного орнаменту на рослинний.

В статье исследованы художественные особенности традиционной женской вышитой рубашки одного из районов Западного Подолья, в частности Залищанщины. Рассмотрены основные характеристики стиля изготовления, шитья и орнамента женской вышиванки. Выделены специфические черты вышиванок этого региона – в частности рукав, который имел тридольною композицию. Осуществляется разделение женских вышитых рубашек на длинные, короткие и туникообразные. Охарактеризованы изменения на протяжении исследуемого периода геометрического орнамента на растительный.

Today, we are witnessing the rapid promotion and fashion of traditional folk clothes, in particular on embroidered vestments. Ukrainian embroidery has become a symbol of the “revolution of dignity” and accompanies all patriotic events that take place in Ukraine. If the embroidered shirt was a reflection of sympathy for national traditions, today, a man dressed in embroidery is a symbol of belonging to the Ukrainian nation. Traditionally, the Ukrainian vyshyvanka is correlated according to the administrative-territorial and ethnographic principle, thus distinguishing Ternopil, Bukovina, Lviv, Transcarpathian, and Kуiv. At the same time, within each of these ethnographic zones, we can follow the specific territorial features and artistic features of shirts, sewing styles, and ornamentals. In our research, the main focus will be on the analysis of historical and ethnographic features of production style, and ornamentation of women’s embroidery on the territory of Zalishchyky Podnistroviа which in ethnographic terms belongs to the West Podillya. The borders of the Zalishchyky Podnistroviа are defined territorially within the borders of the modern Zalishchyky district of the Ternopil region, in particular, settlements along the Dniester and Seret rivers. The basic characteristics of the style of fabric, sewing and ornamentation of women’s embroidery are considered. The main material for the manufacture of shirts was the home-made cloth (hemp or linen), home-made wool or semi-woven fabric. At the base of the cut are laid rectangular shapes that have changed in different types of shoulder or waist garments. Features of such a cut gave a large free surface for decoration. It is indicated by the specific features of embroidery in this region – in particular, the sleeve, which had a thirteenth composition. On the territory of Zalishchyky Podnistroviа most often there are women’s shirts whose sleeve is decorated with beveled in one direction or straight strips of different widths. These stripes were of the same width or alternating strips of varying widths. On one sleeve, depending on the thickness different their number. The stripes were embroidered very thickly. In shirts, in addition to the sleeves, they are decorated with narrow symmetrical stripes of the ornament, the plane around the incision of the sinuses – “pohrudky” and “pobichnytsi”, which run parallel to the “pohrudkу”. The division of women’s embroidered shirts into long, short and tunic-shaped ones is carried out. A change in the geometric ornament on the plant during the studied period was described. Women’s shirts XIX – early XX centuries. Embroidered mainly by a geometric ornament. The plant ornament became popular in the 1920’s. When decoration of women’s shirts was also used to combine geometric and plant ornaments. The characteristic feature of embroidery of Zalishchyky Podnistroviа is the relief of embroidery. Zalishchyky embroidered shirts with ornamentation stand out in their red-golden background and have the appearance of pile products. To give festive dress shirts, solid planes of the pattern on the sleeves were embroidered with silver, gold thread, and tarpaulins. It is natural that the shirt was the basis of the female artistic ensemble, but in everyday use also used other artistic elements, in particular, the so-called waistcoats.