Верхній полотняний одяг Опілля

Abstract

У статті досліджено особливості верхнього народного одягу, виготовленого з полотна, який побутував на Опіллі у кінці ХІХ – на початку ХХ ст. Розглянуто матеріали, які використовувались для його пошиття, характерний крій та способи декорування. Окреслено значення полотняного одягу у комплексі народного вбрання Опілля, принципи його поєднання з іншими компонентами. Окрему увагу приділено полотнянці, її видовій специфіці, конструктивним та художнім особливостям.

В статье исследовано особенности верхней народной одежды, изготовленной из полотна, которая была в употреблении на Ополье в конце ХІХ – в начале ХХ вв. Рассмотрено ткани, из которых она шилась, характерный крой и способы декорирования. Обозначено значение полотняной одежды в комплексе народного костюма Ополья, принципы сочетания с ее другими компонентами. Отдельное внимание уделено полотнянке, ее видовой специфике, конструктивным и художественным особенностям.

In this paper different kind of linen overclothes from Opillia in the late XIX – early XX centuries is discussed. There were a widespread the jacket with its local variations – “caftan” and “catanka” and canvas coat which called “polotnianka” and “plakhta” in Opillia. The jacket had buttons and the canvas coat hadn’t. Its front parts was tied belt – “kraіka”. They were made of linen, hemp or fabrics with combined raw materials. Fabrics with linen and twill weave were often used for this aim. Jackets, caftans had cut back with small pleats and catankas had straight back and were made of white and blue or white and red striped fabrics. This over clothes were made of blue or grey woolen cloth, thin woolen material, cherry, dark blue or black velvet or silk in urban clothes. Jackets, caftans and catankas were the part of festive folk costume, on weekdays people usually wore polotniankas. Polotninkas were Opіllia’s widespread male and female comfortable and practical over clothes, which has been in used for 30–40’s XX century. They were common in Lviv region: Peremyshliany, Zolochiv, Mykolaiv, Pustomyty, Gorodok, Javoriv, Zhovkva and Busk districts. They weren’t worn on the territory of Ivano-Frankivsk’s and Ternopil’s Opillia. There were the long polotninkas the length of which was near 1 m, the middle length – to mid-thigh (near 75–80 cm) and short polotniankas (near 55–60 cm). Female polotniankas were made much more fitted with inserts called “whiskers” on the sides. As opposed to polotnianka, plakhta hadn’t “whiskers”, its back was straight. Principles of composition Opillia’s canvas overclothes are very simple. There are all lines due to cuts highlighted by front band. Decorative seams may be collocate one or two rows. The tailor has used one or more different types of stitches in the handiwork. The color of stitches was a contrast to the white linen – black or scarlet. Details of polotnianka may be connected by openwork and it creates complementary decorative lines and imparts handiwork lightness.