Художні особливості колориту вишивки на жіночих сорочках північних районів Тернопільської області ХХ століття

Abstract

У статті з’ясовано художні та регіональні особливості колориту вишивки на жіночих сорочках північних районів Тернопільської області ХХ століття. Подані дані про монохромний, біхромний, поліхромний колорити вишивки, визначено географію та період їхнього побутування. Простежено взаємозв’язок колориту з композицією орнаменту.

В статье выяснено художественные и региональные особенности колорита вышивки на женских рубашках северных районов Тернопольской области ХХ века. Проанализировано монохромную, бихромную и полихромную вышивки, определено географию и период их бытования. Прослежена взаимосвязь колорита с композицией орнамента.

In recent years, there has been an increasing interest in the study of folk embroidery of different regions of Ukraine, however scientific works suggest that the artistic features of embroidery decoration on shirts of Ternopil region has not been the subject of special research. Therefore, the objectives of this article are to define the artistic features of embroidery coloration on women’s shirts in the northern parts of Ternopil region of the XXth century and to identify their local and nationwide characteristics. The research was carried out with the help of the following methods: analysis, synthesis and comparison. As a result, it was proved that coloration is an essential feature for understanding the artistic and stylistic peculiarities of embroidery. Coloration played an important role in decoration of shirts and performed a number of functions (guarding, aesthetic, ethnographicand-territorial distinctive, sex-and-age differentiating). The main factor that influenced the coloration of embroidery was ethnographic delimitation of the region. Customs, nature, social and household conditions that surrounded folk masters during the given century were the source of artistic traditions of coloration. Such source base influenced the popularity of a particular coloration in the northern parts of Ternopil region (Kremenets, Shumsk, Lanivtsi, Zbarazh districts), which, according to ethnographic delimitation, belong to the southern Volyn. Due to the fact that traditions of embroidery of the above mentioned districts are distinguished by typical features of coloration we also outlined areas of embroidery the coloration of which is marked by local peculiarities. So, summing up we point out that Volyn red and black coloration of embroidery is typical for four districts of Ternopil region (Kremenets, Shumsk, Zbarazh, Lanivtsi), but this coloration is not equally manifested in every area. It is worth noting that the largest number of women’s shirts, decorated in red and black colours, is registered in Shumsk and Kremenets districts, smaller number is recorded in Lanivtsi and the least amount of shirts was registered in Zbarazh. Besides, neighborhood with such ethnographic territory as Polissya that is characterized by rich red colour of embroidery also exerted artistic influence on coloration of embroidery of Ternopil region. Moreover, it should be noted that along with the traditional red and black coloration, polychrome colour was used in some villages and has a number of local variations. Thus, all of the above mentioned suggests that three types of coloration were common in the northern areas of the region: monochrome, which was used at the turn of the XIX - XXth centuries; traditional red and black colours, which were the most popular from 1900 to 1948; and polychrome, which began to be used in the decoration of women’s shirts from 1930 to the end of the XXth century.